Wednesday, June 27, 2012

MOISTURIZERS: Choosing the right moisturizer for dry, oily, combination, sensitive skin

Regardless of skin type, every person should be using a moisturizer if they want healthy skin. The term “moisturizer” can be a bit misleading because moisturizers do much more than add moisture to the skin; they also keep the skin healthy and looking young. All Moisturizers must be filled with ingredients that maintain skin's structure by reducing free-radical damage, reinforce the skin's barrier function, and help all forms of skin cells function more normally.


Ingredients can be categorized into five different sections: antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, skin-identical ingredients, and anti-irritants

HOW CAN I CHOOSE THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS?

All skin types need these things added to skin, the only difference would be the formulation (Lotion, serum, gel, liquid).

ANTIOXIDANTS-anti aging and keep skin healthy
Ingredients: alpha lipoic acid, beta-glucan, coenzyme Q10, grape seed extract, green tea, soybean sterols, superoxide dismutase, vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl palmitate), and vitamin E (alpha tocopherol, tocotrienols) to pomegranate, cucurmin, turmeric, etc

SKIN-IDENTICAL-“intercellular matrix” that keeps skin cells connected and help maintain skin's fundamental external structure. These include humectants, ingredients that attract water to the skin. Think of it as brick and mortar. When the mortar breaks down the skin becomes, flaky, inflexible and stiff.
Ingredients: ceramides, lecithin, glycerin, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, amino acids, cholesterol, glycerol, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, glycosaminoglycans, glycerides, fatty acids

CELL-COMMUNICATING-communicates to the skin how to act 'normal'
Ingredients: niacinamide and adenosine triphosphate
RETINOL- Vitamin A. One of the best cell communicating ingredients for the skin
Becomes retinoic acid when absorbed by the skin and tells the skin how to behave
Ingredients: retinyl palmitate, retinol, retinylaldehye
PEPTIDES- proteins made of long chains of amino acids. Help skin barrier repair, wound healing. Generally, peptides aren't stable enough to be effective because they are unstable when absorbed by the skin. However, they are useful as water binding agents
Ingredients: copper peptides, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-3, and neuropeptides.
ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-3- peptide primarily claims to be a muscle relaxant similar to botox. There is absolutely no research supporting this claim!

ANTI-IRRITANTS-allow skin to heal
Ingredients: allantoin, aloe, bisabolol, burdock root, chamomile extract, glycyrrhetinic acid, grape extract, green tea, licorice root, vitamin C, while willow, willow bark, willowherb, etc.

WHAT TYPE OF CONTAINER SHOULD I LOOK FOR?

Most effective ingredients in moisturizers deteriorate when expensed to sunlight and oxygen so they MUST NOT be packaged in a jar or clear container. The container should be an opaque, tube or bottle with a small opening to minimize air exposing

WHAT MOISTURIZER IS BEST FOR MY SKIN TYPE?

DRY SKIN- Serums and lotions are best for normal to slightly dry skin
Emolients are needed to provide the ability to keep moisture in
Ingredients: plant oils, mineral oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, petrolatum, and fatty acids (animal oils, including emu, mink, and lanolin (Lanolin is most like our own skin) riglycerides, benzoates, myristates, palmitates, and stearates. Silocones (siloxane)

OILY SKIN- Gels and Liquids are best for Oily skin
Look for water based or very light fluid or serum

COMBINATION SKIN- First, make sure your toner and cleanser are not causing the dryness. For combination skin it is best to apply two different products to your skin. Apply a product formulated for oily skin on your t-zone and apply a product for dry skin on your cheeks or dry areas.

DRY UNDERNEATH AND OILY ON TOP- If your skin feels dry underneath but is still oily you are using the wrong skin care products. Using an emollient cleanser, followed by an emollient toner and an emollient moisturizer can prevent the lower layer of skin from exfoliating, creating a thick, dry, flaky lower layer and a greasy layer on top. Drying cleanser, followed by a toner with irritating or drying ingredients, the applying an emollient moisturizer can create the same effect.

DO I NEED AN EYE CREAM OR NECK CREAM?

Good news! If you use a gentle moisturizer that is correctly formulated, this should be gentle enough to use for your eye area and neck. A well formulated moisturizer should be extremely gentle on your skin even if you have sensitive skin. As a result, you do not need to buy a separate product for your eye area. In fact, the concept of an ‘eye cream’ is largely invented in marketing as a way to get consumers to buy more products.

If you would like to learn more about choosing the right moisturizer for your skin I suggest reading The Original Beauty Bible by Paula Begoun